The Third Sex

In my recent trip to Bangkok, I went to watch Calypso Cabaret in Asia Hotel.

As some of you already know, Calypso Cabaret is a show by transvestites/transgender. (Though there are male performers too.) The most famous transvestites’ shows, as I understand it, can be found in Pattaya. The show I watched wasn’t top class, but I was satisfied with it.

Transvestites are known as kathoey in Thai. But among English-speaking communities, they are called ‘ladyboys’.

Some people ask, “Why are there so many transvestites in Thailand?” Well, I guess there are many such people in other countries too. In fact, I have come across quite a few in Kuala Lumpur. It is just that in the Land of Smile, transvestites are more visible.

The next question is, “Why are they more invisible in Thailand?” I believe this has to do with the fact that majority of Thais are Buddhists. Buddhism, unlike some other religions, does not view transvestites as sinners.

The King

No, this is not a post about Elvis Presley...

I had a short trip to Bangkok with my parents in August.

One night, I was walking by King Rama I Road. I wanted to cross the road to get to Siam Discovery Center. But as I was approaching the pedestrian overpass, I was stopped by a police. I knew what was going to happen, as I had similar experience before…

As I had expected, a limousine carrying royal family members sped by shortly. You got the idea: we lowly people can’t be above the monarch in any way.

But I wonder why Buddhist monks do not enjoy the same level of privilege…

If you have been to Thailand, I am sure you notice that portraits of the royal family are ubiquitous in the Land of Smile. You see them at road junctions, on the wall of buildings, and in calenders. The state propaganda machine constantly reminds the people how King Bhumibol has sacrificed for his subjects, therefore all Thais must love his majesty.

The ‘Yellow Shirts’ certainly love the royal family. They ousted former Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, whom they believed had shown disrespect to the King. (Thaksin denied this accusation.)

Well, I can’t write too much here. You know, I am wary of Thailand’s notorious lèse majesté law…

Loy Krathong in Malaysia

Loy (“to float”) Krathong (“a leaf cup”) – the most charming festival in Thailand – honors both Buddhist traditions and the ancient water spirit of Mae Kong Ka, the Mother Waters of the Ganges River. Loy Krathong perhaps dates back to Hindu India, but the present form was developed by the Thais at Sukhothai to honor the rains which had watered the earth and to wash away the sins of the previous year.

Loy Krathong begins with a full-day parade of beauty queens, floral floats, and hundreds of participants dressed in historical costumes. As the sun falls, pilgrims launch thousands of tiny banana-leaf boats, each carrying a single candle, onto the rivers and lakes throughout the kingdom – a wonderful, delicate illusion enhanced by the light of the full moon.

(Carl Parkes, Thailand Handbook)

I didn’t go to Thailand, but a Thai temple in Malaysia, Wat Chetawan, celebrated this festival on Nov 20, 2010. Out of curiosity, I went there for a look. As I had sent my DSLR to Canon for service, all my pictures were taken with Panasonic Lumix…

Tom Yam Coup

Thailand’s Prime Minister Samak Sundaravej has been ousted in a red hot tom yam coup.

A Thai court ruled on September 9, 2008 that Samak violated the constitutional for accepting payment for hosting TV cooking shows. Samak received payments of up to 2,000 baht (US$58) for each taping, which he told the court he used to buy ingredients for his recipes and pay his driver for petrol.

Samak’s transgression was a relatively minor one, and purely technical in nature. It was not related to mismanagement or the leader’s integrity. I personally think that a monetary penalty of say 50,000 baht would suffice.

I am sure this tom yam coup will go down the history as a world-famous joke.

Related post:

泰国流氓大亨

泰国流氓大亨

Note: This post was drafted before Thai Court ordered Samak to step down as the Prime Minister of Thailand.

若非泰国政治动乱，不知华人在泰国的影响力。

泰国前任首相塔信 (Thaksin) 和沙玛 (Samak)，均是华人。他们的死对头 Sondhi，也是华人，中文名叫林明达。林明达的排挡 Chamlong 将军，又是另一个华人，中文名是卢金河。

林明达原本是塔信的商业伙伴，两人后来因为争有线电视经营权而决裂。过后林明达就不断的反塔信。

个人并不欣赏林明达的做法。沙玛是人民选出来的首相，要他下台，还应当靠手中的投票权。如果沙玛贪污，就应该通过法律途径对付他。塔信夫人已被泰国法院判贪污罪成，这说明法官并不受沙玛的人民力量党控制。林明达甚至主张国会议员只三成由人民选出，其余七成受委任，这等同于摧毁泰国民主。

泰国出了这么一个流氓，不是华人的光荣。泰国人支持林明达，是微笑之乡的耻辱。

Link:
The PAD at Government House

Cameron Highlands vs. Mae Salong

During the Chinese New Year of 2008, I traveled to Cameron Highlands. It reminded me of Mae Salong where I visited in January 2007.

Cameron Highlands of Malaysia and Mae Salong in Northern Thailand share many similarities: both are hill resorts; both are famous for tea production; Cameron Highlands is known for its flowers while Mae Salong is dotted with sakura in late December or January. But there is one aspect they differ significantly: Cameron Highlands is big; Mae Salong remains small, for now.

Cherry blossom in Mae Salong

Cameron Highlands actually consists of several towns. They are, from north to south, Kampung Raja, Kuala Terla, Tringkap, Brinchang, Tanah Rata and Ringlet. Tanah Rata and Ringlet used to be the more developed towns. However, since the opening of a new access road in early 2000s, the other towns to the north are fast catching up. During my trip, I saw lots of constructions going on.

I believe Cameron Highlands is over-developed. Clearing up of forests for development has already caused the mercury to rise. Not to mention the dreaded gridlock during peak tourist season.

Mae Salong, on the other hand, still maintains a small town charm. Now I hope it will not make the same mistake as Cameron Highlands did.

Related posts:

Mae Salong

Wat Santikiri, Mae Salong

Cherry Blossom, Mae Salong

Shinsane Guesthouse, Mae Salong

Hilltribes of Northern Thailand

Camelia

The mantra is SLOW

I met a Japanese guy in a guesthouse near Khaosan Road. He had been in Bangkok since before Christmas.

According to him, he worked very hard in Japan. When he was in Bangkok, he spent his days drinking and sleeping.

The Japanese traveler and I

I had just six days in Thailand. My journey was as follows:

• Day 1: Arrived at Bangkok. Spent the rest of the day at Khaosan.
• Day 2: Visited Erawan Shrine, Wat Phra Kaeo and Wat Pho. Had traditional Thai massage at Khaosan in the evening.
• Day 3: Traveled to Damnoen Saduak.
• Day 4: Visited floating market in Damnoen Saduak. Returned to Bangkok in the afternoon and shopped at Suam Lum Night Bazaar.
• Day 5: Visited Wat Arun and Jim Thomson House. Again visited Suam Lum Night Bazaar.
• Day 6: Last minute shopping. Returned to Malaysia.

Compared to people who join package tour, I definitely had been to fewer places. I missed out Pattaya and crocodile farm, for example.

But I don’t regret. I am a working adult who study part-time. Like the Japanese guy in Khaosan, I had a hectic lifestyle. When I am on vacation, I just want to relax. I want to slow down…

Jim Thompson House

Malaysians who have been to Cameron Highlands probably have heard of the Jim Thompson’s Trails, but who is Jim Thompson?

Jim Thompson was an architect-turn-entrepreneur who settled in Thailand after World War II and almost single-handedly revived Thai silk industry. In 1967, when Jim Thompson was holidaying in Cameron Highlands, he disappeared without trace. His home in Bangkok has since been turned into a museum.

Attention shoppers:

On the ground of Jim Thompson House is a store selling exquisite silk products!

More information on:

The Jim Thompson House

Suan Lum Night Bazaar

Bangkok is a shopper’s heaven, and if you like aesthetic stuffs, you should pay Suan Lum Night Bazaar a visit.

According to Nima Chandler, an American who manages the well-known Nancy Chandler's Map of Bangkok, the bazaar is one of Bangkok's top five tourist attractions. Last year, it was reported that Suam Lum Night Bazaar would be closed for re-development. Fortunately, nothing has happened (yet).

Entrance to Suan Lum Night Bazaar…

Doi Tung café, named after a mountain in Northern Thailand which produces coffee beans...

Furniture and other household items on display. Beautiful, right?

Wat Arun

Wat Arun, named after the Indian deity of dawn, Aruna, is located on the West bank of Chao Phraya River. Its 86-meter Khmer-style prang towers above the river to form one of the most breathtaking and famous landmarks in Bangkok.

Wat Arun as seen from the East bank of Chao Phraya River...

Wat Arun is also known as the Temple of the Dawn, but it really should be renamed the Temple of Sunset. Sunset over Chao Phraya, with Wat Arun on the foreground, has inspired countless of artists and photographers – including me…

Erawan Shrine

The story of the Erawan Shrine in Bangkok can be traced back to 1950s…

Construction of Erawan Hotel (now Grand Hyatt Erawan) was halted by a series of disasters: marble destined for the lobby disappeared at sea; workers died under mysterious circumstances, and cost overruns threatened to crush the project. Spirit doctors, desperately summoned for advice, commanded the hotel owners to erect a shrine for the Hindu deity of Maha Brahma. The mishaps ended and word of the miracle spread.

Today, the Erawan shrine hosts a continual circus of devotees bearing incense, flowers and images of the elephant god Erawan, the three-headed mount of Brahma. Supplicants whose prayers have been fulfilled often sponsor performance of Thai dance.

Erawan Shrine is also famous among Chinese, who mistakenly refer to Brahma as ‘Four-faced Buddha’.

Erawan Shrine...

The statue of Maha Brahma...

Devotee praying to the deity...

Dancers performing traditional dance at the request of devotees. I think the devotee in this picture is a tourist from Taiwan...

Offerings, in the form of elephant...

Reference: Carl Parkes, Thailand Handbook

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market was the highlight of my trip to Thailand in January 2008.

Damnoen Saduak is a town located to the west of Bangkok. The floating market is at its full swing in the morning. Tourists who join package tours usually depart from Bangkok at 7am and reach the town about two hours later. After 9am there are more tourists than locals. Following the advice of my travel guide books, I decided to go to Damnoen one day earlier, on Jan 10, 2008. The next morning, I traveled by boat to the market at 7am, beating the tour buses.

Sunset over the canal, or khlong, as it is known in Thai…

On the way to the floating market…

The floating market…

After taking pictures of this friendly souvenir seller, I flattered her with a Thai word, suay, to which she replied, “Khok khun kha.”

Suggestions to would-be visitors to Damnoen Saduak:

1. As mentioned earlier, there would be more tourists than locals after 9am. You are advised to stay overnight in the town and visit the market early in the following morning.
2. If you are going by public transport, take bus no. 78 from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal.
   
3. Nok Noi (Little Bird) Hotel where I stayed is about 20-minutes walk away from the main market. The hotel can also arrange for a boat tour. (I personally went to the market by boat but walked back to the hotel.)
4. Boat service is also available from the market.
   
5. Have your breakfast in the market.

Wat Phra Kaeo & Wat Pho

My relatives joined a package tour to Bangkok in 2006. Last year (2007), two of my coursemates also went there with a tour operator. They visited places like Wat Arun, Erawan Shrine (4-faced Buddha), Safari World, Chatuchak Weekend Market as well as Pattaya. Unfortunately, all of them have missed three of the highlights of the City of Angel, namely: The Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaeo and Wat Pho.

I arrived at Bangkok on Jan 8, 2008. The Grand Palace was closed from Jan 1 to Jan 10 as the funeral of King’s sister was going on. To compensate foreign tourists, entrance fee for Wat Phra Kaeo was temporarily lifted. (Thais are allowed to enter all three sites for free.) Below are some photos I took in Wat Phra Kaeo and Wat Pho.

Wat Phra Kaeo

Wat Phra Kaeo, or Temple of Emerald Buddha, is the home to one of the most sacred Buddha statues in the Kingdom. As you would expect, it is made of emerald. Photography of the statues is not allowed, but I have taken pictures of the temple architecture…

Shorts and short skirts are not allowed inside the temple, so I had to rent a pair of pants…

Wat Pho

Wat Pho is also known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. It is the home of a huge Buddha image: the Reclining Buddha. Also in the temple complex is the famed School of Traditional Massage…

The Legendary Khaosan Road

I think I must be of a rare breed. Most travelers to Thailand start and end their trips in Bangkok. Malaysians typically visit Southern Thailand or Bangkok. For me, I traveled to Northern Thailand in November 2002 and again in January 2007, bypassing Bangkok altogether. I live and work in a big city, so I prefer to escape to smaller towns when I am on vacation.

Finally, I decided to give City of Angel a try. On Jan 8, 2008, I touched down at Suvarnabhumi Airport. (Pronounced "Suvarnabhum"!) My first stop: the legendary Khaosan Road.

Khaosan Road is the heaven of backpackers. Here you will find accommodations at rock bottom price. My own room - with fan but no air-con, TV, phone and attached bathroom - cost just 150 Bath! (I did hope that the room had a window.)

Khaosan Road also appears in Leonardo diCaprio’s movie – The Beach. It’s in Khaosan the character played by diCaprio discovered a map which led him to a beach paradise.

Here you go, Khaosan Road…

In Khaosan Road, you will see more tourists than locals…

Fancy a Bob Marley hairstyle? You can have it done here…

Street vendors…

Waitresses of a bar and a tourist…

P/S For my other posts and photos of Thailand, click on the label THAILAND below.